The Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 – evokes pure and raw motorcycling joy every time you ride it or look at it, something that very few, well priced motorcycles can claim to do today. Also it is “feel overlap” with other usual motorcycles (nakeds, scramblers, adventures, sports, cruisers etc) is so minimal that it makes a compelling case to be a 2nd or 3rd lifestyle motorcycle in your garage.
The days that I had the GT for, everything that I felt, came down to just one thing – Rider Posture.
The first 2 rides were a struggle. I just couldn’t fit on the bike. It reminded me of the only other time I have been on the GT back when it first released and I had gone for a test ride and realized that it’s too uncomfortable. In a back to back test drive, the Interceptor makes the GT look like a painful, uncalled for choice. More on comparing the Twins, later.
Back to Riding Posture. I am 33, 182 cm with a 32″ inseam for reference. I tried multiple postures. It was impossible to find the right riding position and the first 2 days were a bit of a struggle. I tried to sit up with elbows locked and knees below the tank but the elbows would take a lot of strain. I was thinking why do my legs not fit into the tank recesses, was this designed for a shorter person. I would slide back and elbows would relax but then this would load my spine.
Here are the three I most often sailed through, but there were more permutations & combinations.
1. Lock elbows, sit up, knees just below the tank
2. Open elbows out, lean & sit forward, knees way below the tank
3. Right angled elbows sort of tucked in, sit back, lean low, knees fitting perfectly into the tank recesses
The 3rd one worked! Exactly how it’s meant to be on a cafe racer. That’s when truly the GT came alive for me and I started understanding and feeling the motorcycle.
What this 3rd posture does is very interesting :
– Your eye level is low with the cars, lower than the SUVs, making you feel like you are in a movie with these things whizzing past you. The city embraces you versus you having to cut through the city (think Duke)
– The Twin engine’s growl is closer to the ears. You hear it more distinctively and definitively. The acoustics go from being a background score to your ride to becoming the lead singer in a modern yet old school country rock band. I am thinking Mumford & Sons.
– Knees hugging the tank perfectly into the recess makes you feel uncomfortable but it feels like you are out for an experience, one with the motorcycle, instead of it feeling like a tool “underneath” you with other motorcycles.
– No other motorcycle has needed me to use tank gripping as a technique in the city so much when braking, accelerating etc. It’s a necessary skill to keep your spine sane.
– Finally the right angled elbows, take the strain of the wrist, making the posture acceptable and letting the right hand just focus on interacting with the delicious engine.
Overall on the aesthetics, build quality etc – The GT650 really looks the part. I absolutely admire how committed it is to its vision of being a classic cafe racer. From the twin pods to the badges to the fork gaiters to pattern on the grips. Really nice attention to detail.
– Some small details were truly great, like the knee guard brackets on the engine fins – Fit and finish felt good overall. There were zero rattles nor clunks, none of those irritating things.
– Some things though just felt a bit off and flimsy – e.g. the indicator button. But I am guessing the new control pods fix this – I was surprised by how often I turned back to look at it. Or how much I sat in my patio just admiring it
– By the end of it all, I was also surprised by how much the British Racing Green colour grew on me. I would have never picked this in the store or on the website (“look at all those colours), over the other variants but this one truly grew on me day by day.
A few other observations :
– The front felt very unsure of itself on low speed turns. Especially U-turns. Not sure if this was to do with the specific motorcycle I had.
– Grips are quite harsh / hard. It’s an important touchpoint which needs to be soft and squishy. And I am sure an aftermarket one, e.g. from Domino, would change how this bike feels
– Short bursts of speeds when you slightly open the throttle are very enjoyable. In an interesting way when you do that, you realise that it has been politely but authoritatively asking you to sail faster. In a gentlemanly way, not the Duke hooligan way.
– Having said that, the throttle is too lazy. There’s too much play making it too much wrist work. Becomes a serious challenge especially with the clip-ons. Smaller twists are necessary to quickly get to that Oh So Sweet zone of 5K RPM. I am not sure how much space is in the housing but a larger cam profile should fix this.
– Brakes, levers etc all felt good and very capable.
– Loved the deep growl of the twin exhausts. Distinct without being noisy.
– The gear box felt very smooth. And overall, the motorcycle responds very well to clutch-less up and down shifting. Rev matching was very easy.
– I tried different tire pressures, 32 felt most comfortable and 36-39 is what it came with. This will need more experimenting and I am sure will make a discernible difference to ride quality.
– On that note, something about the tires was just not satisfying. I think they are keeping the GT back from being truly the urban retro sportster experience that it could be.
– The lack of electronics is just great. It makes the experience so raw and pure that it becomes a defining characteristic of the motorcycle. Please never change this on the GT. Apart from adding a Gear Indicator & a Digital clock maybe.
– On that note, it was very hard to mount a phone. I tried a Ram X Grip with a Claw Mount. Put it on the crossbar, even the front fork, etc. It was very frustrating at first. But I actually ended up liking that there was no proper place to mount one. Because I ended up losing my way, taking known paths (not necessarily the most optimised) and it kept me away from the subconscious anxiety of looking at the ETA and feeling bad about the traffic. The lack of this actually ended up elevating the raw, pure motorcycling joy experience that the GT stands for.
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On the GT vs INT :
I would explain this in one line – the choice is between Emotionental GT and the Practicalceptor
Posture is also what makes these two motorcycles very different despite them truly looking like twins instead of cousins.
INT is more motorcycle per dollar; GT is way more riding experience per dollar.
INT is the better first motorcycle; GT is the way better second or third motorcycle.
INT is the pair of jeans you wear often, it goes with everything, for any and all occasions; GT is your styled well fitting suit / dinner jacket, that you reserve for when you want to feel and appear special.
INT is what you buy with your mind and heart; GT is what you buy for your heart and your mind.
In January 2022, after having served “Royal Enfield” as an employee for nearly 5 long years, I decided to move on in my career and also upgrade to my long time next in line two-wheeled ambition : The Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 Mark 2 edition (Chrome colored tank with a red strip and spoked wheels). While having served RE in the past few years, since I had the opportunity to view & experience the launch of this product line under the RE portfolio, this was special in a way. The Continental GT meanwhile, was a little more exclusive as its clip-on handlebars are placed lower and the footrests are set quite far back. The leaned-forward riding stance meant it wasn’t ideal for touring, and even less so for tall riders like me.
I really didn’t have a specific segment or type of bike I was looking at, it was mainly down to a powerful engine, decent retro looks and some brag value in the end. And of course if there was a new bike launch and it looked good with good figures, that automatically was added to my list. The common downside for me in all other bikes were that there were all single cylinders except of course the 650. Since this purchase would be my last for a long time, I wanted a multi-cylinder bike. Something that I wouldn’t feel less powered as the years go by and at the same time would hold a vintage value.
Upshifts
As a first, if you own one or plan to, the saree guard and the rear mudguard (unless its monsoon) are the first two aspects you would want to get rid of from the default setup to make it look more desirable, while also having an engine guard & bash plate installed as an add-on.
The twin cylinder acoustics go from being a background score to your ride to becoming the lead singer in a modern yet old school country rock band. The starting rumble hits you hard as a first timer, so does the hugeness of the twin cylinder engine complimented with that super-heavy twin exhaust setup (making the kerb weight >200kgs & one of the heaviest Indian motorbikes you would ever ride).
A good chrome body buffing & polish package is a must to invest upon in order to ensure the longevity of the bodywork put by RE on the engine tank here (PS : Especially for the Mark 2 colour variant).
Brakes, levers and the finish levels all feel good, as well as capable.
On the aesthetics, build quality etc, from the twin pods to the badges to the fork gaiters to pattern on the grips – the attention to detail has stood up to the levels.
The motorcycle responds very well to clutch-less up and down shifting. Matching the rev has been very easy. The gear box feels very smooth.
Short bursts of speeds when you slightly open the throttle are very enjoyable. In an interesting way when you do that, you realize that it has been politely but authoritatively asking you to ride faster. In a gentlemanly way though. Twist the rather long travel throttle and it heads towards the horizon smoothly and at a respectable pace.
Downshifts
Speedometer detailing – It becomes a defining characteristic of the motorcycle making the experience raw and pure on one side. But on the other side, what it lacks is a clock & a gear indicator as the foremost, while the fuel gauge could have been more tuned. The last block starts blinking with more than 3.5 litres left in the tank.
Headlamp – High beam is quite ordinary to sight a lot of details in front of you on a night on the highway, an LED headlamp could have been a much valuable upgrade in this case.
RE could have used better tires still from the current CEAT variants that are fitted (Cost-cutting was considered seriously in this case to downgrade). Tubeless tyres would have been another satisfying upgrade here on the tyre specs. Although it doesn’t matter when riding, the very thought of removing the wheel to fix a puncture is a nightmare. Eventually, to get the best out of your bike in terms of handling, performance and safety, tires make all the difference. Varied tyre pressure levels bring a discernible difference to ride quality : something to standardise for your preferred count over time.
Engine Heating – The 650 cc mill is undoubtedly a charmer, but at the cost of some baking to your lower body & especially your leather shoes if they decide to touch base too often with the engine to silencer
Seat comfort & Pillion posture – Pillion ergonomics have to be re-engineered for sure. This is something that deserves more afterthought by the R&D team for long distance riding suitability (So many owners have been looking up for aftermarket seats to get better cushioning overall) The footpegs are awkwardly positioned and the suspension is slightly dodgy.
In simple words, the Interceptor 650 is a saint-hearted barracuda missile that on one side is a practical choice (over the Continental GT) one buys with their mind & heart which not just enthrals you to up-shift until you reach 4000 rpm on the 6th gear very comfortably, while also making you want for more until reaching the 7000 rpm mark eventually.
If the chrome colour tone is something that you can commit to maintain, this promises to get you some bonus attention on the traffic signals definitely, with that enchanting silencer rumble at your service always 🙂
Motorcycles have been an extremely important part of my life. So much, that sometimes I am convinced I work and earn only to be able to ride more and more motorcycles. While it is indeed an extremely expensive hobby, I look at motorcycling through a lens that exhibits how motorcycles have shaped me and taught me some valuable lessons.
We often forget in life that the journey is far more beautiful than the destination we are headed to. This is one of the most important lessons I have learnt from riding motorcycles on long trips. We are too busy trying to get somewhere in life and in the process, forget that the path that leads us to our goals is so much more rewarding than the final goal itself.
The second lesson I have learnt is that to get respect, you must first give respect. Motorcycles can be extremely dangerous, especially the fast ones which could throw you over the handlebars if you don’t respect their potential. Stay humble, or be ready to be bitten back.
Motorcycle rides have also taught me that life is not always a bed of roses. You might set out to ride expecting nice weather throughout, but the Gods aren’t always on your side. You must adapt to whatever is thrown at you – be it extreme heat, or downpours. And not just the weather, it could be unpaved terrains or mucky streets – it is not going to be a smooth tarmac everytime.
Motorcycles which have been taken good care of proactively, will seldom fail on you when you need them the most. The people you are genuinely nice to in life, will never turn their backs on you when you need them.
And finally, motorcycles have also shaped me in a certain way. They have helped me raise my concentration levels – for, thinking of anything else while riding motorcycles, especially with the kind of people with whom we share the roads, could certainly be fatal. Motorcycles have convinced me that following your passions with all your heart and full dedication is extremely rewarding.
Motorcycles are more than a hobby. They are a way of life to me.
When it comes to motorcycling, one of the foremost accessories I look forward to, is a great backpack – something which can store my essentials, protect them and looks cool as well. Fast forward to the Boblbee Point 65 GTX25 Hardshell Backpack – one of the world’s most eligible motorcycle backpacks – way ahead of time, not just in terms of looks, but safety as well. Water resistant, well built, great fit and finish, enough storage add-ons make the GTX 25 a remarkable and drool worthy companion on the road. It is a head turner. And a purpose built one.
The Hardshell is the headlining feature of this package, the only downside being the fact that you will end up tarnishing its coating / finish on the outside, as it is very susceptible to scratches and marks on usage.
Storage
You can use the GTX25 to pack for a weekend bike trip with all your essentials (Change of clothes, camera, laptop, documents, riding gloves etc) and still ensuring your shoulders aren’t fatigued. I filled up the bag to the brim making it weigh a whopping 8 kgs, and yet being able to use it while riding quite comfortably.
The top pocket is really handy to put your essentials which might need a quick access. The compartments inside only allow you to segregate your laptop, documents and maybe an i pad and some cables. You will have to dump everything else in the main compartment without a choice which I feel is a bit of a bummer for a multi day trip.
PS : You will need to stay cautious of the hardshell screws on the inside, as they can pinch/scratch your hands / clothes / gadgets very easily.
Storage Add-Ons
The additional storage add-ons are purpose built basis the kind of functionality you might have and check most boxes on a backpack – but seem quite inaccessible in terms of the price tag they carry.
The mobile phone pocket is a great add on while riding and can be detached very easily when not in use. Although, it is awkwardly designed in a way that the human hand can’t tread inside completely, leaving the only way to clean this baby up relying on gravity or using a jet spray.
As far as snapping your helmet with the cargo net goes, it is not the easiest of the tasks, if you have a Large sized helmet like I do. But once netted, it is firmly stuck and acts as one unit along with the main shell keeping no room for any loose strings in the helmet’s safety – I would surely rate this good for someone who wants to travel with his helmet on a multi day ride / travel keeping both his hands free.
The 3+3L Sidewinders are a great add-on when you are on a roadtrip with the need to quick access stuff without opening the main compartment. One can store water bottles, phone and camera accessories, toiletries, bills / paper bits and receipts, snacks and still be left with space for more on these. The X case is a conveniently placed design add on to the shape of the bag, which fits perfectly to fill in for its space, giving for additional storage space, which is accessible and easy to open. This would top my list amongst the accessories that come along owing to the ease of access it offers.
Comfort
Lumbar support to your lower back is phenomenal and like no other backpack I have ever used. It is a back protector of the highest order which would not just keep you safe, but also your stuff. Adding the Velcro Waist belt feels like a breeze on the ride. Back and Shoulder strap panel cushioning is amazing for those long rides.
Scope of Improvement
The Hardshell could be made scratch proof
The protruding screws on the inside of the hardshell – need to be covered up with a lining
Ergonomically, you can’t place the backpack on a standing position, if you have to stop and take out something on the road – this needs some thought as there is no real ‘base’ to the design
The whole locking mechanism is dependent on a single buckle and cleat, which is cool and easy to use, but can’t be repaired / replaced very easily, if one ends up spoiling it / if this goes dysfunctional
At a retail price of $310 for the backpack, this surely does a big hole on your pocket. Add extra holes if you would want to use the add-ons to extend its storage / functionality.
Product Link : https://packs.point65.com/boblbee-gtx-25l
Recently got a chance to test the 2018 Kawasaki Versys 650 for a week. Here is an attempt to call out the key attributes the machine brings out.
Look and Feel
On first sight, it has a tall persona. Being a typical Kawasaki, some aspects on the design feel lacking of the right proportions. A high set seat and handlebar give you the ‘tallboy’ feel when astride. Finishing levels are good from the instrument cluster to the switch controls, but there are bikes with more premium standards in the segment.
Engine
The Versys 650 draws power from a short-stroke, 649cc, four-stroke, parallel-twin and liquid-cooled engine. This is an eight-valve motor, with dual overhead camshafts. Digital fuel-injection feeds a pair of cylinders, via a set of 38mm throttle bodies. The Kawasaki powerplant makes 68.4bhp at 8,500rpm, while peak torque of 6.5 kgm comes in at 7,000 rpm. The Ride quality on this one is super refined – it soaks bumps effortlessly and there are no vibrations from the engine, handlebar, footpegs at higher RPMs as well. The engine feels vibration-free, very easy on long rides and city commutes equally. The Exhaust note could have been more exciting though – it fails to delight for a parallel twin 8 valve.
Ride Quality & Handling
Nimble, great handler, very flickable despite the elevated centre of mass. Gives a great visibility with that seat height, not compromising on the comfort. This is probably one of the most comfortable seats in the business. Steep Cornering doesn’t come naturally to the machine with a higher centre of mass and a flabbier kerb weight. But as a tourer, you wouldn’t expect knee scraping with this one anyway.
Suspension & Braking
The Showa front suspension with adjustable Pre-load and Rebound damping on each of the forks and Remote spring adjustment feature on the rear really takes the game to the next level (especially when touring with variance in terrains and payloads). Good roads show an extremely plush controlled ride that’s absolutely lovely. Intermediate roads are dismissed effortlessly as the suspension absorbs the punishment quietly. But it is the big bumps where the Versys really shines.
Full time ABS and dual petal discs on the front give you some great responsiveness and stopping power, which comes out as a first in segment for the Kawasaki 650 family.
The bike does a decent Fuel economy for a 650 twin cylinder – currently 20.5 kmpl, which can go upto 23-24 kmpl on a highway trip. For some reason, the Fuel Range Indicator goes off below 60 kms of fuel range.
Ergonomics
The Key slot is pretty deep inside on the handlebar, which can be a problem to reach into, when wearing gloves to some riders.
The instrument cluster could be informative in more ways – display feels very dated compared to the new generation 200cc and above bikes which sport better displays with TFTs and crisper UI’s.
Adjustable windscreen is a very practical feature, and takes less then a minute to re-adjust. The highest setting does a great job in keeping the windblast away on 3 digit speeds.
Adjustable clutch play is a practical add on
Headlight – This one’s a bummer. Fails to illuminate the road enough in dark
The front fairing tube work feels too bulky and wide
The Name Versys is derived from “Versatile” and “Systems”. Internationally, the Versys is touted as a VFM motorcycle and therefore misses out on a lot of electronic gizmos like ride by wire, traction control, cruise control etc. But with its phenomenal price tag in India – it surely is set to take up the mid-touring segment by storm.
Having lived in Goa for 6 months, and moving to Chennai for my new job – this was a god sent opportunity to tick off the long overdue west coast ride, from Konkan to Kerela. Without much rigorous planning, me and my friend Eshay decided to do this and spend the next 2 weeks on the road to do what we loved the most – ride, eat and surf.
Riding through this route was exciting yet a task – since we were doing this in the peak summers of West India – 2nd half of April.
Day 1
South Goa
80 Kms
Day 2
Gokarna
100 Kms
Day 3
Mangalore
240 Kms
Day 5
Kozhikode
230 Kms
Day 6
Kochi
190 Kms
Day 7
Alleppy
50 Kms
Day 8
Coimbatore
240 Kms
Day 9
Bengaluru
370 Kms
Day 15
Chennai
350 Kms
Food
While Goa offers you vivid variety of cuisines from the cafreals, xacutis, fish and prawn preparations to some great english breakfast destinations, the food changes tremendously passing through Karnataka and then into Kerela, with rice occupying the major chunk of the meals now and hot water becoming the default serving in most restaurants.
Baked beans and Mash Potatoes @ Fatima Restaurant, Agonda
English Breakfast @ Agonda
Grilled Fish Thali @ Karnataka
Banana leaves signify we are in Kerela
Malabari Parathas and Chicken @ Alleppey
Watermelon Juice at Fort Kochi
Curd Rice – My go to meal on the trip
South Goa
We decided to explore hostels across the West coast on this trip, which is how we ended up at Summer Hostel, Palolem as our first base camp for the trip. Hostels are the best way to meet interesting new people, have a comfortable night’s sleep when you are on a budget trip and appreciate the outdoors (since these are mostly marooned through the day). I really appreciated the creative side of these linked with their themes – each one being a notch beyond the usual monotony you find in a cityscape environment.
We had a couple of days by the beach to tick off some unchecked acts during our comfortable & laid back stay at Goa so far. We hired a Kayak to chase the setting sun on Palolem beach, which was exhausting but a phenomenal experience. A Kayak is probably the cheapest way you can shuttle around the shore lines and have a great workout. Eshay, being a pro at surfing already, wanted to spend time exploring the waves at Agonda, Gokarna and further down south. As a starter kit, a 9 feet board is a safe and sound choice to pick up surfing and catch the waves, though it eventually comes down to how you judge and which waves do you invest on to – which comes with experience. We found Agonda to have the wildest of waves in the whole of Goa, while Varkala sits at the top on this quotient when it comes to the West coast.
Kayaking in South Goa
Summer by Hostel World, South Goa
The 9 ft beginner surfboard
Eshay taking on the waves in Gokarna on his 6 ft-er
Gokarna
Gokarna was long overdue on my list – having heard so much about the serenity this place is known for. The Mahabaleswar and Mahaganpati temple hold great pilgrimage importance, while the the touristy side of this small sleepy town are the peaceful beaches – Gokarna, Kudle, Om, Paradise & Half Moon. We decided to stay at Zostel here, which is situated at the top of the hill overlooking the beach – probably the most well located hostel you can find in the country today. The night sky in Gokarna is actually beautiful – clear and star studded – I tried counting starts after a really long time here – a meaningless task which added to the charm of this place for me. We visited the Prema Restaurant for some tasty vegetarian food – not worth a miss when in this town. Its a great place to trek through the hills and make your way to the beaches.
View from Zostel, Gokarna – Part 1
View from Zostel Gokarna – Part 2
View from Zostel Gokarna – Part 3
Wall Art at Zostel
Wall Art on the streets
Mahaganpati Temple
After our layovers in Goa, Gokarna and Mangalore, we rode into Kerela – when road and traffic change into thin and thick, respectively. Known for its amazing sea views, Ayurveda treatments, and teak wooden houseboat tours along the backwaters, Kerala’s tourism is booming. The state has a great mix of beaches and jungles, like Goa, but is less touristy. Crossing Kozhikode, we reached the Gateway of Kerela – Kochi on day 2 of our ride in the state, where we decided to take it slow and unwind ourselves in this town.
Fort Kochi
This part is cut off from the city, connected through ferry, and brings together the old world charm of the chinese fishing nets, spice markets and archaic buildings endowed with some very beautiful galleries and gourmet stops signifying the indelible marks of Arabs, British, Chinese, Dutch, and Portuguese in the city’s history and development. Even though you can no longer actually see the Fort in Fort Kochi, this is still the most interesting part to explore. There is a striking correlation that the streets of Fort Kochi share with Goa.
The street vendors on the shore side of Fort Kochi give you a slurpy watermelon juice, served with small flakes of watermelon itself which was a first for me. We caught up a theatre show of Kathakali at the Kerela Kathakali Centre – which was an intriguing, colourful and musical treat to the eyes. Next we visited the Mattancherry Palace which is a museum taking you back in to the “Royal” times of this town.
We broke bread at Dal Roti, Kashi Art Cafe, Pepper House Cafe & Mary’s Kitchen – all of which were some of the most visited and sumptuous restaurants in Fort Kochi. A special mention to the Curd rice at Mary’s Kitchen.
Waiting for the ferry to Fort Kochi
Maritime Hostel, Fort Kochi
Map of Kochi @ Maritime
Santa Cruz Cathedral
Kathakali Show
Curd Rice and Fried Chicken @ Mary’s Kitchen
Streets of Fort Kochi
Kashi Art Cafe
Staying in Kochi is completely different from any other part of Kerala due to its constantly varying scenery, ethnicity and cuisine.
Alleppey
Famous for it’s tropical backwaters and cruising along these waterways – being an essential Kerala experience that can’t be missed – we decided to ride down to Alleppey next. Our home for the next day was Artpackers hostel – an artsy reincarnation of an old school building. Alleppey becomes graceful and greenery-fringed, disappearing into a watery world of villages, canoes, toddy shops and of course houseboats.
2 lane Kerela Highways
Artpackers Hostel, Alleppy
Sailing through the backwaters
Eshay’s new friend
Alleppey Backwaters
Hello Kerela !
We visited Cafe Catamaran on the first evening here, which is a nice little elevated cafe, facing the shore with some great music – a great place to watch the sunset. We stepped in Halais restaurant for a great Chicken dinner, where I also got my hands on an imported packet of Milo – the chocolate milk drink from Childhood.
Bengaluru
From Alleppey, I turned towards The Art of Living International Centre in Bengaluru – my destination for the next 1 week, which was 660kms of highway tarmac with a night hault at Coimbatore, while Eshay turned to Varkala to spend a week with his surfboard. I accomplished the DSN course here, which was a week of meditation, self-actualisation, some interesting group tasks and an adventure night camp on the last day.
Thanks to this cocktail of a holiday – I was rejuvenated and ready for the new chapter of my life – Royal Enfield, Chennai.
The wind in my hair, chasing sunsets, sipping in the good life – Like all good things – this boyhood dream was also shaping to an end now. 6 months in Goa endowed me with an unusual side of life – which was relaxing yet on the toes (because there is so much to do in Goa always). Knowing the countryside, working out of the most scenic bars and beaches, exploring the gastronomic side of Konkan, partying until the wee hours – The privilege of not being a tourist & rather a resident here was special indeed.
The first thing you feel when you tighten your seat belts on a flight to Goa is a deep sense of core happiness, especially since no one on a flight to Goa looks unhappy. You know you deserve to be on this flight as the past few weeks have been crazy busy and a weekend in Goa is great for your overall well being.
Beach Please !
I love the fusion of the Indian and Portuguese culture and, well everyone from all the world comes to Goa so there’s a really interesting community of other expats, hippies and long stayers. Couchsurfing, especially works really well in Goa, and is a good platform to host/meet new people across most of the year. We were lucky to have some great travellers be a part of our adobe.
Food
Goa has several excellent restaurants which represent the culinary diversity of the state. The cuisine of Goa is a delicious reflection of its history and heritage. It is influenced by its Hindu origins, four hundred years of Portuguese colonialism, and modern techniques. No other cuisine in India can claim such contrasting influences. Seafood, coconut milk, rice, and local spices are main ingredients of Goan cuisine. Being a state with a tropical climate, the spices and flavours are intense. Chicken Cafreal, Xacuti, Calamari Prawns, Fish Curry Rice, Vindaloo, Bebinca are things most unique to Goan food. The most popular local drinks, besides beer, are Port wine and spirits like Urrac and Feni. My favourite eateries in Goa – this is a tough list to compile, but here is an attempt :
North Goa : Gunpowder, Laplage, Baba Au Rhum, Bomras, Infantaria, Spice Goa, Florentine, Mango Tree, Chicken Man, Fatima’s
Bars you can’t be missing to visit – Soro, Cohiba, Showbar
Special Mentions – to Navtara for being all over Goa. Delfino’s & Newton’s to stock up everything International & Expensive that you can’t find anywhere else, though would wish to when in Goa.
Infantaria, Baga
Shwarma & Pita @ Arambol
Baked beans and Mash Potatoes @ Fatima Restaurant, Agonda
Cafe Bodega, Panjim
Grilled Chicken @ Chicken Man, Candolim
Must try the Malabari Paratha and Fish Gassi @ Gunpowder, Assagaon
The Other side of Goa
Panjim : The numerous archaic and classy elements have always made Panjim special. There are routinely breathtaking sunsets on the beach at Miramar, swarmed by food stalls and youngsters in the evening. Languid people watching on the criss-crossed steps of the church square. Frugal magic and pure exhilaration of a free ferryboat ride across the Mandovi River, and the welcoming outdoor midnight mass on Christmas Eve in historic Fontainhas, where residents of the neighbourhood hospitably lay out coffee and cake for all visitors. An impressive range of local markets, Portuguese styled streets, aristocratic neighbourhoods, art galleries, restaurants, hotels, boutiques, and start-ups decanting sparkling new fizz into the gorgeous, vintage 19th- and early 20th-century localities. An enduring classic, but irresistibly revitalised. That is my Panjim, today.
Overlooking the Mandovi Bridge that connects North Goa to Panjim
Divar Island :River Mandovi flows through Goa and drains into the Arabian sea right next to Panjim. The river is beautiful and all along surrounded by a thick foliage of mangrove. Just before the river meets the sea, there is an island which had historically been a very important part of Goa. The name of this exotic little island is Divar. Divar in native Konkani means small.
Portuguese Architecture : The best way to explore these gems is on foot, but be prepared for a lot of walking. If you are in Panjim / Old Goa / Divar and numerous smaller towns across South Goa, the walk can be interrupted by many coffee and cake breaks. You can eat as much as you like because the walk will anyway digest it all. But right from the vivid churches, old villas and Portuguese streets which take you back in time, only to give you a realisation – that owning a villa in these streets could probably give you more peace of mind than owning any size of real estate in any other part of the world.
Saturday Night Market : The legend around the Saturday night markets is rather interesting. About a decade ago, a German had this idea and leased out land from a Goan man and started this market. When the lease ended the Goan decided to retain the market but threw out the German. Not to give up, he started another market only to be thrown out once more. The market offers something for everyone. An elaborate flea market, with good music, food, bar area and great people around – the place is well abuzz until 3 am in the night.
Jewellery Gallore
Assortment of Harps from around the world
‘Assorted’ Smoking pipes
PSY Fabrics
There is so much one can indulge in, apart from the cliches of travel, food and partying- explore the art cafes and museums around the city, indulge in water sports or just go out sailing or fishing with the locals, join a surf school and learn catching the waves, attend an evening mass with the locals at a Church, go dolphin spotting or paragliding, make a fortune (or lose some) in the casinos on Mandovi, rent a bike and explore the single lane streets & twisties or just do your run / yoga on a quiet beach.
I think most travellers have difficulty sorting out the disparity between their personal experience “on holiday” and the communities who may be affected by their tourism. It’s one of the tough parts about travelling, and I don’t have the answer to what’s right and what’s wrong, what’s beneficial or harmful. But I do know that moments like these are the ones that take the economics out of the equation and bring people together to just be people.
Banana Surf School, Morjim
Sunset at Ashwem Beach
Chasing Sunsets
Bonny n Sonny Mechanic, Mapusa
Scuba Diving
Arambol beach
Arambol beach shacks
Carnival Time in Goa
View over the Vagator beach from Chapora Fort
Candolim-Calangute beach belt
View from outside a small church
Sunset overlooking River Mandovi mixing in the sea
In April 2017, I packed up my base from Goa to move to Chennai and join Royal Enfield. I fondly cherish my time spent in this beautiful and loving state, but as they say – all good things come to an end.
“What do we leave behind when we cross each frontier ? Each moment seems split into two ; melancholy for what was left behind and the excitement of entering a new land ”
Our Train was arriving at Amritsar railway station at 9 Pm and we were quite exhausted being in the train for about 31 hours from Indore. As we arrived at Amritsar, everything changed to a 5 star service. We were received and greeted with refreshments by 5 Indian Army Soldiers who helped us with our luggage & Motorcycles. All thanks to Aaron’s friend, who happened to me an Army brat and managed this hospitality for us at a very short notice. It was too late to receive the motorcycles as the cargo office had already closed and would open next day at 10 am.
We were then transported by two Indian Army Jeeps to the Army Cant accommodation, which was a total luxury. As we entered the accommodation quarter, we were surrounded by at least 10 army personnel to check if everything was in place. We asked for dinner and we all went to freshen up. We ate one of the best tasting dinners, watched a football match and went to sleep. We planned to leave 7 am next morning to visit the golden temple before we go to the railway station the pickup our bikes to head for Kasol.
Day 2 (Amritsar – Kasol)
The plan was to have breakfast and visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar, then pickup our bikes from Amritsar Railway Station at 10 am and then leave for Kasol.
On a journey like this, things never work according to plan.
We all got ready at 7 am and our breakfast was already served for us with two Army Jeeps waiting to pick us up and take us to the Golden temple and then to the railway station to receive our motorbikes.
We had the most amazing breakfast and headed to the golden temple where we took a dip in the holy water of the golden temple and headed towards the railway station.
We picked up our bikes from the station and tied our luggage to the Motorbikes and said our goodbyes to our friendly army soldiers who were with us all the time till here, providing us with whatever we needed.
Then we quickly stopped for fuel and minor repair on the bikes like air pressure and break checks.
It was already 1:30 pm and we were way behind schedule to reach Kasol.
We started riding through the lush fields of Punjab stopping at Langars to have sugarcane juice to freshen us up in the shortchanging heat.
We kept on riding through Hoshiarpur till we started to hit some hilly terrain.
After having late lunch we kind of realized that we would not make it to Kasol that day. We decided to ride on till Mandi which was another 80 odd kms.
On the way, we took a wrong turn in the hills for 7 kms which made us ride another extra 14 kms to a fro while it became dark.
The temperature started to drop by now and we started to feel the Himalayas.
After going the right direction again it was already dark and we decided to have a quick tea break which turned into some Maggie instant noodles and a conversation with the tea stall owner.
We started to feel lazy and decided to ask the tea stall owner for a place to crash. He offered us to spend the night outside his tea stall and that he would spend the night with us. “Not to worry” He Said.
He and his wife made some delicious home made local food for dinner before we set up our mats and sleeping bags outside his shop.
From 5 star treatment by Indian Army to sleeping outside a simple tea stall in your sleeping bag under the open sky with the simplest but most delicious food for dinner. This is the exciting part of such an adventure trip.
DAY 3 (Mandi – Kasol)
Wow what an amazing night, sleeping under the open sky and waking up at the break of dawn to the chirping and singing of hundreds of birds greeting the day. As I looked around I realized that some clouds are towards us from the valley. By the time all of us woke up, the clouds were already over our heads and it started to drizzle a bit. We started to rush, packing our sleeping bags and mats. By the time we got our things together and put the rain-covers on the saddlebags and bikes, it already started raining heavily. We quickly had to rush into the tea stall.
Such is the weather in the mountains. Do not underestimate it. It can change at any moment, it can surprise you any time. Its always good to be well prepared for all sort of weather conditions in the mountains. This was not at all extreme, but it was a warning for what was to come and to respect it at all times.
We got wet and sat in the tea stall. We all were feeling cold and each of us sat in a corner of the tea stall with our arms folded and face tucked in into our jackets as far as possible. We did not move for an inch and did not speak a word with each other for the next 45 mins till the heavy rain stopped and the weather cleared up. It all went as quickly as it all came.
We had chai and walked out of the tea stall. The birds started chirping again and the sun came out to greet us and warm us up.
We had Breakfast and slowly started to prepare to start off to Kasol which was now only around 80 Kms.
We said our goodbyes to our friendly tea stall owner and head out for our first day of 100 percent Himalayan mountains.
Taking a few breaks we finally entered Parvati Valley after taking a turn away from the Manali highway before Kullu which heads to Kasol – Manikaran till Tosh where the road ends. The road got narrower but there was quite a bit of traffic, because Kasol is a very populated place for youngsters and Manikaran is a popular pilgrim destination for Sikhs. Scenery starts to become beautiful and the valley starts to become narrower as you go deeper into Parvati Valley.
Luckily we did not run into any more bad weather on the way and we reached Kasol. It was mayhem. Its the Goa of the mountains in summer. Lots of people, most of them completely buzzed and dont even know whats going on.
We met a few friends of ours who had a hotel room in Kasol. We went to the hotel and had lunch with them. We put our bags in their room, had a shower and freshened up. Its was drizzling a bit and we sat on the Balcony adoring the beauty of the mountains in the rains.
The plan was to take our sleeping bags and tents to Chhalal, which is a popular place in the woods with cafe’s and camps parallel to Kasol on the opposite side of the river. We had pizzas in Kasol and after sunset we headed out for a 15 mins hike to Chhalal crossing a narrow and wobbly Hang Bridge.
Chhalal was a beautiful place no doubt, but the vibe with so many buzzed people around made us feel a bit uncomfortable. We were confused what to do, as we did not feel like hanging out here for a long time. I started walking into the woods with my torch, looking for a good place to set up the tent away from all these people and vibe. Eventually we found a good place behind some rocks. We started looking for some wood and pine cones to start a fire. We ordered some food from a cafe nearby and finally got to sit down and relax with our own bonfire going on next to our tents.
We had dinner and went off to sleep saying goodnight to day 3 in Chhalal and Kasol.
At this point we still did not know where we were to be heading next. At this time we just wanted to spend a few days in the mountains.
DAY 4 ! (Kasol – Manali)
Good morning Chhalal. It was a beautiful morning with lots of birds chirping and the clear bright sun rays welcoming our morning. After waking up we had not really decided what to do next. We actually had planned to stay in Kasol for two days, but after experiencing the vibe, which did not really suit us we decided to plan ahead. No doubt Kasol is a beautiful place but somehow we were a bit uncomfortable. We had and option of going for the KheerGanga trek which would have taken us three days but we did not have that much time.
We definitely wanted to visit the Manikaran Gurudwara and have Langar there. Langar is the term used in the Sikh religion for the common kitchen/canteen where food is served in a Gurdwara to all the visitors (without distinction of background) for free.
We freshened up in the common bathrooms of one of the Chhalal Camps, packed our tents and went for a short walk down the river to find a good spot to chill for a while before we go back to the Hotel in Kasol where our bikes were.
After some play in the water, we decided to have a dip in the ice cold water flowing through the stream. And in no time we were freezing.
Now we were warming ourselves up again after the crazy ice cold water ordeal and spent another half an hour at that location.
We started walking towards Kasol and picked up our bikes to go to Manikaran Gurudwara which is only a few kms away.
We had Darshan and went for the Langar. There are hundreds of people sitting on the floor at a time in the canteen hall of the Gurudwara. That food I tell you – It’s delicious! It is said that the rice at the Langar of Manikaran Gurudwara is cooked in the water of the hot springs which originate there. They served us Rice, Black Daal, Potato with delicious gravy and curry. After filling our stomachs to the brim with delicious Langar food, we left to pickup our bags from the hotel.
After finding out that the Manali – Leh Road was open and operational for public, We decided to leave for Manali to take the permits from the SDM office at Mall road, which is necessary to cross the Rohtang Pass – 13050 Feet which leads to Leh Ladakh via Manali – Leh road. For that we had to reach Manali before the SDM office closes at 4PM.
We picked up our bags from the hotel and pushed off to Manali saying goodbye to Kasol. We reached Manali around 6 pm. Packed with Indian tourists with tourist taxis and tourist buses everywhere you look. Traffic jams and one way roads everywhere. We were lucky to get through the traffic with our bikes, but I wonder what would you do if you were in a car ? Go nuts and spoil your holiday.
Since we were too late to go to the SDM office we decided to find out where exactly the office is and what documents are required to get the permit. Finding the SDM office isn’t hard, the hard part is to find parking even for a two wheeler and traffic cops wont even let you stand for a minute on the roadside.
We got to know that we needed a copy of our license, vehicle registration card and Pollution card. The office would open next day at 10 am.
Since we didn’t have pollution cards for our bikes we got those done from a nearby garage and set out to look for a spot to pitch our tents. There was no way we could do that in Manali. So we crossed Manali to a place called Vashisht, which is about 10kms from Manali. After searching around for about an hour we found a good spot to Camp and spend the night. It was a beautiful spot to set up camp with a huge waterfall nearby and the water flowing right next to the spot where we decided to pitch our tent and beautiful trees around.
Since we found a good place to pitch our tents we decided to go back to Vashisht to have dinner before we pitch our tents and go to sleep. We went to the ATM at Vashisht and had delicious dinner at a small roadside restaurant not far from the ATM.
Now we started fantasizing about Leh and started seeing a trip to Leh getting closer to us and possible. We discussed that if we would find a cheap room for the night at Vashisht, might as well take it as we wanted to charge our phones and Cameras if we were to take lots of pictures the next day.
We found a good room opposite to where were had dinner. The room was nice with a balcony and a good view of the mountains. It had a clean bathroom with warm water and sockets to charge our electronics. We decided to spend the night in the guest house instead of tent which felt more feasible to us.
Next morning we had to reach the SDM office on Mall road in Manali at 10 am to get our Road permits to cross Rohtang Pass to Leh.
DAY 5 (Manali – Keylong)
After Spending the night in the guest house in Vashisht we had to reach the SDM office at Mall road, Manali at 10 am to get our permits to cross Rohtang pass.
We had our breakfast at an amazing rooftop restaurant called World Peace Cafe with a breathtaking view of the mountains and the valley towards Rohtang and then headed back to Manali to get our permits.
Parking is hard to find as such in Manali, even at 10 am, but luckily we found a place to park our bikes which was in an ally not far from the SDM office. We reached the SDM office at 10 and were shocked to see a long line of people already waiting for the office window to open. We filled our forms and attached them with our copies of driving license, motorcycle registration and Pollution check. We stood in the line for about 15 mins in which we hardly moved 5 inches. This was going to take a long time. We decided to take turns standing in the line while the others went to the market for some personal shopping and essentials for the trip ahead. Sunny bought himself some gumboots, I bought diamex which is a medicine for altitude sickness and Aaron went to an internet cafe to free some space on his phone to take pictures. After two long hours standing in the line we finally got our hands on our permits.
This is it… this was the point when we knew we were actually going to Leh. Till now we were never sure. This is it now. We are going to get Leh’d as they say.
We had some ice cream at Mall road, celebrating our permits and started walking towards our bikes. We had to head back to the guest house to pick up our luggage and have lunch before we leave.
As we reached where our bikes were parked we were in for another surprise. I had kept my helmet on the bike before we went for the permits and it was not there anymore. Someone had snitched it while we were gone. We needed to buy another helmet before we left now as there was no other place go get a helmet ahead. We decided to go back to the guesthouse to pack our luggage and have some lunch. We were already very hungry and it was almost 1 pm now.
We tied our luggage to our bikes and left the guest house to have some lunch before we make our further plans. We had lunch and decided to cross Rohtang pass and spend the night at Keylong, which is the last town with mechanics etc till Leh. Most of the people stay at Keylong after crossing Rohtang pass. We decided to do the same.
All the tourists who visit Manali go to Rohtang with tourist taxis and busses, so you can just imagine how many cars go up and down this road. As we left quite late all the traffic we faced was on coming because all the taxis were already returning from Rohtang. We slowly ascended towards Rohtang stopping to take pictures and videos.
The ascend to Rohtang is truly beautiful. It looks very much like the European alps. The roads are good with lots of hairpin turns. It started to become very nippy and windy up at Rohtang. Once we crossed all the tourists we stopped to take a look at the breathtaking view on top of Rohtang. We could not stop there for long as it was very windy and cold. We carried on around the ridge where there was a little shelter from the wind. We stopped and quickly wore extra clothes as we were freezing. The view up there is spectacular and you get the sense that the road ahead is going to be a completely different world to that we live in.
After the ascend comes the descend and now the roads become a little bit bumpy. We were feeling cold and we saw a patch of sunlight in the direction we were heading. We wanted to reach there fast so that the sun can show us some love and give us some warmth. As we descended, the temperatures also slightly got back to comfortable and we also reached the patch of sunlight which we absorbed and loved as we rode along the valley. The topography changed completely and we were now riding along a river with tall mountains left and right as we could see the beautiful sun rays shining through Valley towards where we were heading. It was truly magical and the sun was slowly getting ready to set.
The roads were mostly flat along the river with just a few slight ups and downs on the way. We Crossed a little village called Sissu which I remember to be very beautiful. We could not stop there because we were already quite late to reach Keylong and we knew we would be riding into the darkness.
The roads were very dusty with very fine silt kind of dust on the roads. It started to become dark and we started to be a bit disappointed that we were missing kilometer after kilometer of scenic beauty in the darkness. We still had a 20 Kms to go. Every new turn into the valley is so beautiful that you don’t feel like missing even a single blink of an eye.
We reached Tandi. Tandi is famous for its petrol pump, which is the last petrol pump till Leh. There is a signboard saying “next petrol pump 365 kms”. This is the petrol pump where you have to fill up your fuel tanks and carry extra fuel if needed.
We found a flat area, good to setup tents behind the petrol station and asked if we could pitch our tents there. We also asked if there was any place to have food nearby. They told us that there were a few roadside restaurants a km away. We decided to spend the night behind the petrol pump and have dinner before we setup Camp and decide about the fuel situation next morning. We were only 7 kms from Keylong.
We went to have dinner at a small shop run by two Tibetan sisters. We had momos and rice with beans for dinner. We asked around if anyone could arrange some fuel cans for us for next morning but nothing seamed to work out. We ate dinner and went back to the petrol pump to titch our Tents.
After setting up our tents we had a little bit of old monk each for the cold and went off to sleep. This was our third night sleeping in tents and we enjoyed it. We decided to ride to Sarchu Next day after solving our fuel puzzle.
DAY 6 (Tandi – Sarchu)
Good Morning Tandi. Its surprising how well and how comfortably we are able to sleep in our small tents. It might be because we end the riding day so exhausted that when we hit the feathers we just fall asleep to wake up right next morning.
The first thing we had to do is to solve our fuel canister problem. As we took a look around the the petrol pump we came across a few containers, most of them were either very dirty or just too damaged to use. All 3 of us started searching a little more when I came across an intact 10 liter plastic container which was just about perfect. It had no lid but that problem could be solved by simply tying some plastic instead of a lid. We checked if it had any leaks by filling it up with water first before we use it. Its was okay to use.
So we fill our bikes to the brim and fill the 10 litre plastic canister with petrol. The fueling station guys help us to tie a plastic bag instead of the lid and we were ready to go. We started tying the fuel canister on Aaron’s motorcycle with bungee cords.
Here comes another problem. We notice a small leak in the canister where the petrol was leaking out. It must have happened because of rough handling while tying the canister to the bike. After all that canister was old and lying around in the sun and cold for god knows how long. We could also not fix the leak. Now everyone starts looking for another canister to put these 10 liters in. Even the fuel station employees were looking for containers now.
All we could put together now is a 2 litre soft drink bottle and two engine oil jerry cans of 3.5 litre and 4.5 litre, which put together was exactly 10 litre. We quickly poured the petrol from one container to these three make shift containers and finally tied them on the Bikes.
We pushed off toward Keylong which was only 7 kms away to look for some breakfast and washroom facilities.
The roads are good and bad on off now. The scenic beauty is indescribable and the people more and more start looking like they were from Tibetan origin, their friendliness and hospitality explains the same.
We stop at Keylong for the last air pressure check as this is the last place to get any sort of repairs done on the bike till Leh which is a bit less than 400 kms away. We also stopped for breakfast at a Cafe which had an amazing view of the Valley and which oversees Keylong town.
We sat on the terrace enjoying the sun and some Sunbathing. We ordered breakfast, put on some music and took turns using the washroom which the cafe/ guesthouse had. We started feeling so comfortable in the bliss of the sun and spend quite sometime there. This is also the last place any mobile phone would work. Only my mobile phone had signal so everyone made their last few necessary calls to tell their loved ones that we will not be reachable for the next two days.
We really needed to get our lazy bums up and on the bikes. We spent almost 2 hours enjoying the sun and the view of the terrace cafe. We forced ourselves up and finally got going. We could have spent all day there.
We stared riding along the valley. The roads were mostly flat and twisty. Road conditions were on and off good and bad.
Along the way there are a few check posts where you have to enter your name and vehicle registration number. There was one at Rohtang Pass where you had to show your permits to cross the pass and there was one today before a place called Zing Zing Bar.
Yeah I know funny name. It sounds like there is a bar at the ascend to the notorious Baralachla Pass where you could sit down for a drink. Sorry my dear alcoholic folks, its a small army camp and a station for BRO (Boarder Road Organization) Vehicles, thanks to whom this road is cleared from snow and maintained during the time it is operational.
Since we had to stop at the check post to enter our names and get off the bikes we decided to take a tea break right opposite to the check post. This is where we got into conversation with an American man who was there for a trek around and he was admiring our Motorcycles and approached us asking some questions about our bikes and the equipment we had with us. During the same time a female rider stopped at the check post to enter her details. Once she finished with entering her name and registration, she approached us, asking us where we were heading. We told her our next hault was at Sarchu Way to Leh & Ladakh. Her name was Serpil Kalayci from Turkey who was a solo female rider who rode all the way from Delhi with a rented 150cc Suzuki Gixer. She told us she had left from Manali at 5 am and that she was also heading towards Sarchu. We got into a good conversation with her and we were also amazed that it needs a lot of guts for a female to ride in a foreign country like India all the way from Delhi to Leh and Back. She was writing her story to a Biker magazine and was doing a stretch of road which we did in two days in one. She was a very friendly lady and we got along very well. From Here we started riding together.
We did not care about road conditions as much as we were enchanted with the breathtaking beauty of the valley. Each turn brings new scenic beauty to life, each being more breathtaking than the other. You feel like taking a stop and some pictures after each turn which brings you to a new view. Every time you think it can not get any more beautiful than this and you are always in for a surprise.
The weather conditions were perfect as we rode through the twists and turns of the beautiful Baralachala pass having to face a few water crossings on the way which is due to the melding glaciers and melting snow. Serpil was facing troubles crossing the flowing water as she had a phobia of the water washing her away. Sunny was wearing gum boots so he occasionally hopped off the bike to help her cross the water. Her shoes got wet though. I have heard many stories about the notorious Baralachala pass but it was good to us.
We reached a beautiful frozen lake as we reached the top of the pass. We stopped to take some pictures.
Again after the ascend comes the descend and the temperatures get back to normal again. I have also noticed a pattern in the passes that one side, either the ascend or the descend has a good road and the other side is not so good.
After descending from Baralachala pass we took a pit stop to have some lunch at a small roadside store. Serpil changed her shoes and I gave her an extra pair of dry socks and gloves to wear. She was feeling cold and was also having a head ache. We gave her some Diamex pills for altitude sickness and ordered for Maggie and bread omelet, The best bread and omelet we had during the whole trip which Serpil treated us with.
After resting, eating and warming us up a bit we carried on for another couple of hours and water crossings, gaining a bit more altitude into Sarchu.
Sarchu looks like a plateau in between huge mountains on each side and plains in the middle. We saw a few camps and also people pitching their tents. It is a vast plain area where you can pitch your tent anywhere you desire. We had tents for ourselves but Serpil did not have a tent of her own. We stopped at place where and asked if we could pitch our tents and if they had accommodation for one more person. The owner told us that his place had not started for the season yet but he had no problems if we put up our tents there, the only thing was that he could not provide any services and he did not have a place for anyone to stay yet. Here we bumped into a group of 4 guys and 3 girls from Bangalore who had come with a rented SUV from Delhi. They were also looking for a place to stay and put up their tents. We asked everyone including the group from Bangalore to wait there as we went looking for a proper place to spend the night. I saw a camp with colorful tents at the end of the of the turn & decided to ask there if they had something to stay. He had everything we needed as well as an extra tent for Serpil to stay.
We went back and informed everyone to go to the Camp with the colorful tents. We set up our tents there and the group of youngsters from Bangalore set their tents next to ours. They never had pitched a tent before so we had to guide them a bit on how to pitch the tents. Even Serpil got her tent from the camp owner and everyone settled down.
Once it got dark it also became very cold. We all went in the main tent of the Camp where they were serving food for the evening. That evening we were a group of 11. The 7 youngsters from Bangalore, us 3 and Serpil. We played our own music, had great conversations and everyone in the tent was drinking old monk. Even other people who were staying at the same Camp were drinking old monk. There was an old monk bottle on every table of the dinner tent.
I started to feel the altitude now and was also having a head ache. Serpil was very exhausted from her ordeal. She had been riding since 5 o clock in the morning and was also feeling the altitude. She ate food first and went to sleep in her tent.
Walking out of the main tent of the camp, I felt the cold go through me. It was the coldest place we had been till now. I walked up to our tent and squeezed myself into my sleeping bag and wrapping myself up tightly for the night. All this seamed like so much effort in this altitude with low oxygen levels everything becomes a task. As I finally was tucked in I had to breath heavily for a minute or two till I could control my breathing back to normal.
Next morning we planned to leave at 7 am. Next destination is Leh 250 Kms away, which is the longest distance of this ride in a day.
First after heading out was another mountain pass called the Lachulung la pass followed by More Planes and Taglang la pass which is the world’s second highest pass at 5300 meters and then into Leh.
DAY 7 (Sarchu – Leh)
And what a gorgeous morning it is. Beautiful sunshine in the Sarchu valley with the shadows of the clouds creating patterns on the surrounding Mountains. The vastness of this region cannot be explained. It is an experience which can be absorbed only by being there in person.
The sun was shining and it was not freezing as it was in the night. Although while walking around I saw frozen water here and there and the water pipes also froze over night.
We packed our tents and left from Sarchu by 7:30am. Today was the longest ride covering a distance of 250 kms till Leh and crossing two passes, one of which is supposedly the second highest in the world. We were told that from Sarchu till Pong the roads were average and from there the roads would be perfect all the way till Leh.
After some morning tea we started off towards our next destination, Leh. All were in good spirit and we started to ride along the beautiful Sarchu Valley for a while till we started ascending the Lachulung la pass.
Lachulungla pass again has a completely different vibe. Its amazingly beautiful with a clear blue sky up above and lovely red gravel rock formations all around, corroded by sun, wind, rains and snow. It is a completely different world in itself with absolutely no vegetation as far as the eye can see. Every turn revealed a new barren landscape which is uninhabitable.
After descending from Lachulung la pass we take a break at Pong to have breakfast before we carry on into the More Plains. I was excited to see the More plains as I have seen many beautiful videos and pictures of the More plains.
All the way from Manali till Leh, the only town is Keylong. All the rest of the places which you might find named on the road map from Manali to Leh or rather to say from Keylong to Leh, such as Zing Zing Bar, Sarchu Way to Leh & Ladhak, Pang and so on, are not towns or inhabited places. They are all make shift tents which have small food stores with provisions or places to refuge if the weather gets nasty. Do not be mistaken that these are actual settlements or towns.
We had breakfast at one such tent which was again run by two Tibetan ladies with beautiful, cute kids. We had omelet, tea and delicious aloo paratha which is Indian bread stuffed with potato. Serpil also met a fellow Turkish chap who was actually Indian but could speak perfect Turkish. After a short conversation we carried on a short ascend and finally hit the More Plains Leh Ladakh, It is a similar place like Sarchu but only Much bigger. From here the roads were absolutely flat and smooth. We could push our bikes till 100 kmph and cover lots of ground in a short period of time unlike the days and roads before. Again the clouds were making amazing patterns along the mountains of the More plains with vast flat ground in front of us. We stopped for a while to take some pictures and videos.
Once the More plains ended we started to ascend the second highest motorable pass in the world Taglang La, the roads were perfect with turns overlooking the More Plains from above. After ascending for a while I started to feel it. I started to feel the power lag in my motorcycle. As the air becomes thinner and oxygen levels drop while you keep ascending on the pass the engine does not get enough oxygen to perform, this results in a major power lag in any engine. My motorcycle has a 500 cc fuel injected engine which should be sufficient as we climb the mountain. The road goes straight uphill and is in very good conditions, you feel like going faster but you cannot because the engine is under performing.
We were used to this now that going uphill the temperatures would plummet and then descent quickly to get back to comfortable temperatures. On top of Taglang la, it was very windy and cold. We descended only this time we got excellent roads going up the pass as well as going down. Once after descending down we rode along a very narrow valley and very close to a flowing river. Slowly, after crossing a few mountains the valley becomes broader and we started to see some vegetation and fields. We stopped for lunch on the way at a small place again run by two Tibetan sisters with really cute kids. We all had rice and beans with some vegetables and rested for a while. Aaron even took a nap for 10 – 15 mins before we carried on.
We now entered a valley which was lush and green with rock formations which looked like they were cut and carved with a knife. Totally weird structures. I don’t know how they must have been formed, but they looked amazing. Continuing through this valley we reached the far outskirt of Leh.
We got to know that we are close to Leh now because from here the roads became broader and we were entering a huge plane and dusty area with lots of big army posts. The traffic also increased and we noticed local traffic not the traveler traffic. We also came across the first petrol station which was actually 332 kms from Tandi. The signboard of Tandi Petrol Station which says “next petrol pump 365 kms” must be older than this petrol pump.
We carry on into Leh to be another 30 kms away, we get welcomed by a Sandstorm. Literally we had to fight our way through strong head winds with lots of sand coming our way. The sky and the road was full of sand. We fought the sandstorm for about 15 mins till we got closer to Leh and entered Leh city.
Were were told that Changspa Road, Leh is the best place to look for hotels and it is also right next to the main market. We headed towards Changspa road and after searching for a while we found the most amazing guest house we could find for a mere 500 per night per room.
We took two rooms. One for Serpil and one for the three of us. We got the most amazing room in the house with huge balcony over looking Leh and a big room with a dressing room where we put our luggage and a bathroom with hot water. No room service but we got tea and omelet bread in the morning.
Serpil wanted to rent a bike to go to Khardungla which is the highest motorable pass in the world next morning. Rented bikes from Himachal Pradesh and Delhi are not allowed to go to Khardungla and Pangong tso. Only locally rented bikes or personal vehicles are allowed. These rules have been implemented by the local Leh authorities.
We took a shower and planned to take a stroll to see the market in the evening for dinner but all of us ended falling asleep without having dinner that night. Our plan for next day was, well…Nothing.
DAY 8 – Day One in Leh
We wake up in the morning to witness the peaceful and harmonic vibe of Leh. Our huge balcony was perfect, overlooking, Fields in which the old guest house owner used to farm his crops every morning going through his fields with a radio and listening to local news. The weather was perfect. We asked for some breakfast which we got served by the guest house boy. We could not ask for a lot but tea, bread and omelets or instant noodles we could ask for. That is all they had and that was also all we needed.
We made full use of our balcony, sunbathing, listening to music and also writing some diary entries of the trip. We also took this chance to wash our clothes and hang them to dry. We tied some bungee cords across the balcony and hung our clothes on them.
Serpil came to ask us if we wanted to join her to go to Khardung la, the highest motorable road in the world. We were not in the mood to go anywhere on the bikes that day. As she had travelled so far through India alone Khardungla was one of the places she wanted to visit. We had planned to have dinner with her once she came back in the evening & before she left to continue her journey back to Delhi alone the next day as we planned to laze around for a couple of days more. All we wanted to do was sit around, listen to music and do nothing. We were too comfortable on our balcony to move anywhere. As such, we had already crossed the second highest motorable road in the world which was Taglang La on the way to Leh which is 5328 meters, Baralacha Pass is 5600 meters. We did not feel like the effort to go to Khardung la for and experience of just 300 meters. People Mostly go to pass to get a photograph clicked in front of the signboard which sais highest motorable road in the world. Going just for a photograph was just not worth it for us and we wanted to relax for a day now.
After washing our clothes and relaxing till afternoon we decided to take a stroll into town to eat some Tibetan momos. We went into the first cafe that looked good and sat down to order some food. Very nice location under a few trees but we were not at all satisfied with the food we ordered. This was the first time during the whole trip that we did not enjoy the food and it was also the first time we spent that much money for a meal.
We walked down further along the Changspa Road, Leh and walked through some Tibetan handicraft markets. We were still a bit hungry as the momos at the previous cafe did not satisfy us, but we did not find any place where they would serve us momos instantly.
We then went to an internet cafe to load all the gopro videos and pictures on a USB drive. We put the files on transfer and went to the German Bakery and sinned with chocolate croissants, chocolate balls and cinnamon rolls and returned to the internet cafe to pick up our camera and the usb stick.
We also did not find Serpil that evening as she was not carrying a phone and we were worried if she had returned safely from Khardungla. We asked her guest house people if she had returned safely which she did.
We wanted to meet her one last time before she left from Leh to Amritsar and then back to Delhi.
DAY 9 – Day 2 in Leh Ladakh
We woke up next morning to see a note on our door from Serpil that she had left to continue her journey back to Delhi. We all were sad that we could not meet her again to say our goodbyes before she left, thankfully we have facebook to stay in touch.
We decided to make a Packing video on what all you need to prepare for when going on a motorcycle trip to Leh. Aaron unpacked his bag and spread everything out on the balcony and explained every item he was carrying on this trip in the Video.
We then said goodbye to our lovely host and owner of the guest house. He was the cutest old man ever. I used to watch him everyday attending to his fields with his FM radio. What an aura that man had. He was so peaceful and quiet.
Next, we stepped into Eshay’s (My friend from OYO) very comfortable hotel – Lingzi. We had a massive buffet for lunch that day which was something we had not witnessed in many days. We ate lunch and took our bikes and started riding towards the direction we saw the monuments for some sightseeing.
After riding through some narrow lanes and paths we reached an amazing and peaceful Stupa, which was completely white. It was tranquility at first sight, with no noisy tourists around to disturb the peace. We walked inside the Stupa and took our rounds. It is necessary to walk in clockwise direction when walking around a Buddhist Stupa. I came across a local man who was also walking rounds of the Stupa, chanting Buddhist chants. I came closer to him and he started to explain this tranquil Stupa to me. Peace of mind and coming to terms with life situations brings such tranquility. I wished I could just sit in one of the Meditation rooms and shut off from life for a while.
After leaving from here, we went into the direction of the next monument we saw from above which was a grey looking Stupa. We found the Grey stupa with a lovely view and luckily no tourists around. We walked around and took a few pictures reading the history about this Stupa. It is round and does not have a pointy top. It is also not white but grey. Its got to do something with an evil spirit that used to trouble Leh.
Next, we went riding towards Namgyal Tsemo Monastery. It is another beautiful sight to visit in Leh. It is again on the top of the mountain and looks majestic in its pure white color. It is very humble and small with a three story high golden Buddha statue inside and you can walk all the way to the roof to enjoy the incredible view of Leh valley and the mountains that surrounds it.
After sunset we went back to the hotel to plan our return trip from Leh to Delhi. Before going to sleep we again had a grand buffet which we treated ourselves to.
Day 10 (Leh – Dras)
We begin our ride after packing all our luggage and starting the day with a delicious breakfast and a hot shower. We realised we got so attached to this place over the last 3 days that it became a little hard to bid adieu. While me and Aaron prepped our bikes mounting the luggage, Sunny vanished in the market looking to buy something for her family, while we were left stranded on the road to begin the day’s ride. Eventually, he returned and we began our day ride at 12 o’clock in the afternoon. Hustling through the first 50 kms, we reached magnetic hill, which became our first stop for some pictures while we wondered what really happened to push vehicles further automatically at this spot. Juggling through some GoPro angles on the way, we kept our pace and entered the beautiful valleys of Kargil now as the sun started going down. There was still another 100 kms to hit Dras, as it got really dark. We kept riding continuously on the long, and whirling highway, amidst the trucks to be our only company. We touched the perimeter of Dras by 8 pm in the evening, while it became very chilly and we bumped into some more bikers looking for a place to spend the night. Now, Dras is a very small town, with a select few lodges that you can choose from. The wise thing to do here, if you reach in late, is to fix the first place you find with a decent room. We managed a room and some rajma chawal for dinner and got back to our micro-room, fitting the three of us narrowly on a bed. Tucked into our sleeping bags, and not risking the dirty blankets, we said goodnight to another day of hard riding.
DAY 11 (Dras – Patnitop)
After a crazy night stay in one of the craziest accommodations till now we decided that our next target would be Patnitop via Srinagar. That was the final destination for Sunny, as he wanted to wait at Patnitop for his wife so that they can go to Vaishno devi together.
Our morals were also down as we knew that today we will be riding into civilization and cities and that our journey was coming to an end. Aaron and myself still did not know if we would be riding to Delhi to catch the Train or till Chandigarh. It was yet to be decided.
Just after Dras comes another pass called the Zozila Pass, It is also called to mighty Zocilla pass. We were also curious how mighty it would be after what all we had seen on our journey till now.
We had a tough ride ahead today and we left after breakfast at the place where we spent the night and said goodbye to our 5 star suit with bed bugs and holes in the walls.
Starting off towards Zozilla pass the scenic beauty was amazing.
Lush green valleys with grasslands were on our way. Passing through plains and valleys we were stopped at an army check post. One of the soldiers recognized our perambulated MP 09 from Indore. He commented that “These people were not to be let through, these vehicles are from MP 09, Indore. They were not to be let through unless they had tea with us.” We were first surprised and then relieved that one of the soldiers was from Indore and he invited us for tea and breakfast. We sat with him for a while listening to his stories of the area and his life as a soldier on the top of the world. Such friendly gestures you can only find here. It was lovely to sit with him and chat for sometime. They invited us for lunch and asked us to stay for a while more and even stay for a night with them but we had to move on to get to Patnitop. We said goodbye to the lovely hospitality of the soldiers and continued towards Zozila pass
We came across a lot of shepherds who very much looked like Afghan people. Their traditional clothing, hats and physical appearance looked very much like that. We started ascending the pass and caught the first snow. The roads were also very bad.
After reaching the top and starting the descend, traffic started to increase drastically. Roads were still bad and horrible. The roads on Zozilla pass were the worst till now and it took us a very long time to conquer this passage.
After we descended from Zozilla, it started to become more and more greener and it started looking like I always imagined Kashmir to be but we faced hundreds of taxis that were going to the top of Zozila all coming our way. It was a sad sight to see so much traffic after all the peaceful riding we had on our journey.
We soon reached Sonmarg and It got crazier. I always pictured Sonmarg as a beautiful place but I could not see any of that so-called beauty amongst the swarm of thousands of people, thousands of parked taxis and hundreds of parked Tourist buses.
It was ugly and jammed. I tried looking around for some beauty. No doubt it was beautiful but all the beauty was covered by a blanket of ugly tourists.
We rode through Sonmarg and after 50-60 kms stopped for some tea and refreshments. The mountains became less tall and we were slowly moving into the plains. It also started to become hot and dusty.
We kept riding till Srinagar and bypassed Srinagar getting stuck in traffic here and there. We were riding on a 4 lane highway now and were riding towards Patnitop. Just before sunset we stopped for some refreshments where we met a pilgrim cyclist who was cycling from Chandigarh all the way from Vaishnodevi with his simple cycle. Not only once but he had done it many times before and was carrying newspaper cuttings of his achievements with him. Sunny wanted to give him his gum boots as a present which he could not accept as he could not carry more luggage as he already was.
After our refreshment we started ascending to Patnitop. Ascending further into the mountains again, this is one of the worlds most dangerous roads to me. Convoy after convoy of trucks come at you with some crazy and dangerous overtaking maneuvers by the truckers. It is very dangerous heading into their direction. We had many close calls that day riding.
To make things worse we had to ride another 120 kms in the dark with oncoming trucks and scarce patch of good roads and then once you reach a good decent speed you have to rumble through some potholes in the road. We were very annoyed by the potholes and tired. We stopped 17 kms from Patnitop and crashed at a lodge which was not much better than the place we stayed at a night before in Dras but we just decided to crash and spend the night there.
Day 12 (Patnitop – Pathankot)
We started off the day dropping off Sunny at a hotel on the hill enroute, and ending up bumping Serpil again. We decided to have breakfast together while we took down the hill. We had no plans on where did we want to reach, and just wanted to ride down south into Punjab, as long as we could. The first half of the day’s ride was comfortable as we crossed through the lower mountains now. On the way, we teamed up with another solo rider – Joe, who bought an old Thunderbird to travel India on his own. We were rumbling triple digit speeds together for a while, when Jon had a puncture on a rocky patch. We decided to find a mechanic in the vicinity, and finally got one, nearly 4 kms from the site.
While the mechanic got back the tyre to his garage and repair it, we broke for lunch and re-hydrated ourselves. The sun was scorching and we were eager to get back after this delay of 1.5 hours in the day’s plan. As we hit back on the highway’s (the flat roads now), we wanted to reach Pathankot at the earliest now, as it got dark, with another 80 odd kms ahead of us. We stopped by at a bar to celebrate the day over some cold beer and shared our backgrounds and stories. With a new zeal now, we hit back to finish our ride for the day ending up at Pathankot late night around 10 pm. We found a hotel, where we shared a room, had a quick dinner and exchanged music. Joe had a great collection ranging from Xavier Rudd, Alt-J, SlipKnot and Arctic Monkeys which still reverberates in my playlist.
Day 13 (Pathankot – Chandigarh)
We started the day off late, getting to our bikes by 11 am, after finishing breakfast and packing to get back to the road. We said our goodbyes to Jon and hit for the road to head for Chandigarh which was 270 kms. As we closed in towards the end of the trip, flashes of the past fortnight kept ringing us up, as we faced the monotony of the flats yet again. Traffic, Street Dogs, Concrete Roads – all the mundane works got back to us. We stopped at a Burger King joint for a late lunch, some 80 kms before Chandigarh. After spending 2 lazy hours we finally got up to stretch the final mile of the day, tired to the core, intrinsically.
DAY 11 (Dras – Patnitop)
After a crazy night stay in one of the craziest accommodations till now we decided that our next target would be Patnitop via Srinagar. That was the final destination for Sunny, as he wanted to wait at Patnitop for his wife so that they can go to Vaishno devi together.
Our morals were also down as we knew that today we will be riding into civilization and cities and that our journey was coming to an end. Aaron and myself still did not know if we would be riding to Delhi to catch the Train or till Chandigarh. It was yet to be decided.
Just after Dras comes another pass called the Zozila Pass, It is also called to mighty Zocilla pass. We were also curious how mighty it would be after what all we had seen on our journey till now.
We had a tough ride ahead today and we left after breakfast at the place where we spent the night and said goodbye to our 5 star suit with bed bugs and holes in the walls.
Starting off towards Zozilla pass the scenic beauty was amazing.
Lush green valleys with grasslands were on our way. Passing through plains and valleys we were stopped at an army check post. One of the soldiers recognized our perambulated MP 09 from Indore. He commented that “These people were not to be let through, these vehicles are from MP 09, Indore. They were not to be let through unless they had tea with us.” We were first surprised and then relieved that one of the soldiers was from Indore and he invited us for tea and breakfast. We sat with him for a while listening to his stories of the area and his life as a soldier on the top of the world. Such friendly gestures you can only find here. It was lovely to sit with him and chat for sometime. They invited us for lunch and asked us to stay for a while more and even stay for a night with them but we had to move on to get to Patnitop. We said goodbye to the lovely hospitality of the soldiers and continued towards Zozila pass
We came across a lot of shepherds who very much looked like Afghan people. Their traditional clothing, hats and physical appearance looked very much like that. We started ascending the pass and caught the first snow. The roads were also very bad.
After reaching the top and starting the descend, traffic started to increase drastically. Roads were still bad and horrible. The roads on Zozilla pass were the worst till now and it took us a very long time to conquer this passage.
After we descended from Zozilla, it started to become more and more greener and it started looking like I always imagined Kashmir to be but we faced hundreds of taxis that were going to the top of Zozila all coming our way. It was a sad sight to see so much traffic after all the peaceful riding we had on our journey.
We soon reached Sonmarg and It got crazier. I always pictured Sonmarg as a beautiful place but I could not see any of that so-called beauty amongst the swarm of thousands of people, thousands of parked taxis and hundreds of parked Tourist buses.
It was ugly and jammed. I tried looking around for some beauty. No doubt it was beautiful but all the beauty was covered by a blanket of ugly tourists.
We rode through Sonmarg and after 50-60 kms stopped for some tea and refreshments. The mountains became less tall and we were slowly moving into the plains. It also started to become hot and dusty.
We kept riding till Srinagar and bypassed Srinagar getting stuck in traffic here and there. We were riding on a 4 lane highway now and were riding towards Patnitop. Just before sunset we stopped for some refreshments where we met a pilgrim cyclist who was cycling from Chandigarh all the way from Vaishnodevi with his simple cycle. Not only once but he had done it many times before and was carrying newspaper cuttings of his achievements with him. Sunny wanted to give him his gum boots as a present which he could not accept as he could not carry more luggage as he already was.
After our refreshment we started ascending to Patnitop. Ascending further into the mountains again, this is one of the worlds most dangerous roads to me. Convoy after convoy of trucks come at you with some crazy and dangerous overtaking maneuvers by the truckers. It is very dangerous heading into their direction. We had many close calls that day riding.
To make things worse we had to ride another 120 kms in the dark with oncoming trucks and scarce patch of good roads and then once you reach a good decent speed you have to rumble through some potholes in the road. We were very annoyed by the potholes and tired. We stopped 17 kms from Patnitop and crashed at a lodge which was not much better than the place we stayed at a night before in Dras but we just decided to crash and spend the night there.
In the end, this trip taught us a lot of things, about riding, about the nature and most importantly about ourselves. This is a small effort to document this memory, which I would so fondly cherish for the rest of my life.
In October 2015, I got lucky to be deputed to Jaipur for a 3 month project. This was one of the most life changing quarters for me as I got to live out of my saddle bag in this completely stranger city and exploring the culture, people, roads from scratch, so much that it evolved into a love affair so strong, I never wanted to give up on the city.
Founded on 18th November 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, a Kachawaha Rajput, who ruled from 1699-1744, it’s hard to miss the pink in the Pink City as Jaipur is fondly called. Jaipur is a fine representation of the regal grandiose that has always distinguished the state of Rajasthan. Home to opulent palaces, towering forts and holy temples, not only has Jaipur gracefully retained its royal roots but it proudly displays them for visitors to see and experience.
As you ride through the city, you can not ignore the Central Park and the Majestic Statue Circle throbbing at the epicentre of the city, flooded in the evening with youngsters sipping coffee and unwinding the day.
Statue Circle – The Heart of Jaipur
Major tourist attractions are comfortably in your city commute range, and are not limited to
Hawa Mahal
Jantar Mantar
Amber Fort
Jal Mahal
Nahargarh Fort
City Palace
From the deep fried, circular shaped Ghewer’s , to the heavily loaded hard wheat, ghee garnished Daal Baati’s, Pyaaz ki Kachori’s and the kingsly, spiced up and heavenly Laal Maans, Jaipur’s rich food culture will leave your belly wanting for more, all the time !
For a first timer, the heavy richness of old world buildings and the surrounding walls that guard the old city, make for an impression like no other city in the world. The legacy of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh and Maharani Gayatri Devi is sculpted through the walls and monuments across the city.
Maska Bun & Masala Chai – An all time cracker here.
View from Tapri, Central Park
A notable point, I often found time for was this rooftop cafeteria near Central Park, which goes by the name – Tapri. Platonic food, quaint surroundings and an aerial view of the Central Park and Statue Circle always made this place special.
Hawa Mahal (Rear Side)
Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is an extraordinary, fairy-tale, pink sandstone, delicately honeycombed hive that rises a dizzying five storeys. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. The top offers stunning views over Jantar Mantar and the City Palace one way, and over Siredeori Bazaar the other.
Statue Circle – The Heart of Jaipur
Raj Mandir Theatre stands as the this opulent cinema looking like a huge pink cream cake, with a meringue auditorium and a foyer somewhere between a temple and Disneyland.
My Compact yet Cozy Adobe in Jaipur – The General’s Retreat, C-Scheme
Also got a chance to meet Vijay Singh, founder of Rajputana Customs at his residence cum workshop. He is one of the finest motorcycle customizers in India and has enjoyed a cult following over the recent years. He can be found playing around with ten’s of Enfield’s/Harley’s/Triumph’s at any point of time at his uber cool workshop with his team of magic mechanics.
Vijay Singh at his residence & workshop (Right)
Rajputana Customs Workshop in Jaipur
From fine cuisine to distinct architecture, the hospitality of the people is as warm as the blush hues that embrace the cityscape. Jaipur is undoubtedly one of the most hospitable cities in India, which will always make you want to come back for more.
A common question that rises while planning for your long overdue bike road trip is what are the essential things one must carry and how to keep things minimal yet well stocked.
Item List :
Entertainment
Survival
Portable Music Speakers
Sleeping Bag
Earphones
Tent
Go Pro Camera + Mounts
Sleeping Mat
Powerbank
Firestarter Kit / Lighter
Binoculars
Mosquito Repellant / Net
Charger & Extra Batteries
Portable Utensils
Laptop
Sun protection
Diary
Sanitiser / Health Kit / Toiletries
Tazer (for safety)
Torch
Hydration Pack
Riding Gear
Medical kit
Helmet
Rain protection – self
Jacket
Hand Gloves
Bike Spares
Balaclava
Extra Spark plug
Riding Boots
Extra Clutch cable
Knee guards
Extra Tyre tube
Bungee cables
Spare key
Saddle bag + Rain cover
Tool Kit
Here is a video blog that can be handy for travelers / bikers who are ready to take the dip.
Moto-morphosis 